Retlaw ghost town
The ghost town of Retlaw is situated in the dry belt region of south central Alberta and sits along the former Canadian Pacific Railway (CPR) Suffield Subdivision branch. Well off any major highways the place is seldom visited and is accessible only by a dusty back road. What little that is left of the town however offers a lot to the history explorer.
For example, the Retlaw United Church. Having been built almost a hundred years ago, this structure has been kept up and is still used for the occasional service. It was renovated recently.
Just beside the church is a well equipped picnic site inviting the few visitors who pass by to stop. We did! There is clean shelter with tables, bench seats and a propane BBQ. Damn I should have brought a steak!
Just down the street is what we called the Retlaw show home. It’s sagging and leaning, is missing windows and some of the roof, and inside the floors flex and squeak. But it can be entered and it contains various things you’d expect to find in a rural or small town home. There is a McClary Quebec Heater cast stove with a teapot on top, there is a kitchen table with chair, jars in the cupboard, and a radio sitting against the wall. Plus there is two old sewing machines and other bric-a-brac.
Everything looks in place as if staged (and I think it was), but regardless the feeling is though the owner just up and left one day. A broom inside could be put to good use.
The only other building of historical note in the town is what appears to be a garage. It looks to be used by a local homeowner (one of only a couple in the area) and while sagging, seems to be reasonably solid.
Scattered throughout the town site are interpretative signs that document every building that once stood here. Someone went through a lot of trouble making them and another goes through a lot of trouble mowing all the areas around them. They give great and detailed insight into what the place was about.
Lots of old foundation can be found, plus other debris scattered here and there. Bed frames seem to turn up a lot in ghost towns and here is no exception. In a shed, some old railway cross bucks are found, remnant of the branch that once passed here. Large shade trees help us place where some buildings were.
Near the former train tracks is the Retlaw Cenotaph. Given the small size of the town, it amazing how many people from here served their country well.
Retlaw is Walter spelled backwards and the town was named for a CPR official. Little settlement took place in the region before the trains came in 1913. Concurrent with the railway, the plans were to build irrigation canals so the often bone dry prairies here could be successfully farmed. With these plans in place, the town prospered and grew – they had grand ambitions.
In the end the canal never came and it was instead routed well away from town. Without water, Retlaw and those who farmed nearby were doomed and in no time farms were failing, businesses were following suit and soon everyone just moved away. Into the 1920s the town was in a death spiral and by the 1950s the place was essentially the ghost town we see today. The only visitors at that time were the occasional freight trains passing through on the CPR line.
Retlaw was for a short period in 1913 the terminus of this CPR branch. This line connected to the mainline in the east near Suffield Alberta, and later (by 1930) was built west to the CPR Aldersyde line connecting to it at a point just south of Calgary.
This branch continued to see trains into the late 1990s or early 2000s when the line was abandoned (the exact date has still not been confirmed). Oddly, through the 1990s when I often travelled in the area delivering oilfield equipment, I never once saw a train along this branch or even a rail car at an elevator siding. The line was used, but not that often it seems.
There is little indicate where the Retlaw train station was, although the former rail line, elevator siding and locomotive turning wye can be easily discerned.
At one time, a diverging route was planned that was to head south of here towards Lethbridge, but it never got beyond the planning stages. Had that line been built, it’d be interesting to imagine how this could have impacted Retlaw.
Not in here, but rather a nearby town called Grantham, we find a string of old boxcars in a farmers field. I’d love to explore these!
To see some other ghost towns we’ve visited, follow any of these links…
Rowley Alberta ghost town.
In search of Mitford Alberta part 1.
Lumberton ghost town.
If you wish more information on this place, by all means contact us!
Date of adventure: September 2012.
Location: Retlaw Alberta.
Very nice. I included a link to your page on my page on my Grandfather’s homesteading in Rosemead and Travers.
Thank you. I’ve set aside some time next week to read that post. It looks fascinating!
My ggrandparents lived in Retlaw at least from 1916-1921, when my ggrandmother died there. She is buried in Lethbridge, though. We are planning a trip through there this summer and hope these old building survived another winter.
Wow, great! So nice to hear you’ll be taking the time to visit the place. It’s always good to connect with one’s past and I’m sure it’ll stir up some emotions.
Ghost Town Hunters send me here. Great webpage!
Glad you stopped by! Always new and interesting content here, so be sure and drop by often.
Those were wooden boxcars by Grantham? I noticed them driving by, but wasn’t sure if they were or if they were wooden sheds… Good to know! Did spot a motor car in the former hamlet.
I’ve been trying to get close to those boxcars for some time. They’re in rough shape and likely not going to last for much longer. Can’t seem to connect to the land owner however.
They are probably some of the last wooden boxcars around. When I worked on the CPR passenger trains in the last 1960s, the old conductors would tell of the CPR just taking old wooden rail stock to a siding and setting the whole thing on fire. Going back later to pick up the metal.
I know of several wood boxcars, all located at various farms, near Calgary. Still, there’s not exactly common. I heard that too – that some were burned and the metal salvaged.
Hi! I am glad you made it to our little area. I am a descendant from Retlaw. This is a look at our past. The church was really called the Retlaw united union church and is a historical site. The restoration of the church brought on all other things in Retlaw that you see today. Recently they celebrated 100 years and there were many visitors. The little ghost town came back to life for a weekend. This is home still to this day for many of us even though we no longer live here. You can find a lot of info on Retlaw I am happy you stopped by and I hope you signed the guest book in the church! Happy travels!
Thank you for posting! I really enjoyed my visit to Retlaw and would love to hear any other stories you have. The church I am afraid was locked when I was there. :<
Hello Diane,
My dad (Harold John Woods) and his parents and siblings lived in Retlaw, I’m guessing late 20’s and into the 30’s. One of my dad’s siblings is buried in Retlaw, and I was wondering if you could give me some directions to the Retlaw Cemetery?
Thank you,
Kerrie
Kerrie, it’s just south of town, a click or so, off RR 173. It’s set back from the road a bit on the left hand side.
We are related. Rod here Rosemary’s third child and youngest son. One of these days I’m going to make the pilgrimage to Retlaw and hopefully find the location of what I’ve been told was “Wrenthan Place” the farm that was rented. apparently the farm was about 1 1/2 miles N/E of the village…
Here’s hoping they see your post.
My sister inherited a sewing machine looking much like the one on the ironing board. It can from an aunt who passed away recently.
Very cool!
Great post. Retlaw is a neat place, the church is in great condition still. I have managed to miss the cenotaph the couple times I have been there, I will have to keep an eye open for it next time through.
It’s right near the entrance to town. Thanks for posting!