Glenbow Ranch Big West Loop

Glenbow Ranch Provincial Park is a wonderful natural area between Calgary and Cochrane. There on the north side of the Bow River, it’s a huge playground for outdoorsy types, with lots of rolling hills, grasslands and the odd wooded grove. Despite being close to the city, it’s easy to imagine oneself in some distant valley, far removed from the chaos and drudgery of an urban world. In other words, it’s a great place to get away without going far.

There are a good number of trails here and they can be combined into various out and back routes, or make a loop of it as we did here. No matter, it’ll be a fun and varied trip. All hikes start with a descent from the parking lot, so remember, it’s all uphill at the end. Everyone gets a nice workout returning to their car! Cows roam sections of the property, at some point each year, so look for their calling cards underfoot and step lively.

This trip makes use of the following trails: the south leg of the Tiger Lily Loop, then Bowbend, McPherson followed by Badger Bowl and finally north Tiger Lily at the end.

The article presented here is a do-over of an adventure posted ten years ago with updated information and photos. We’ve been at this so long, we’re now able to revisit places we documented long ago and have them seem like a completely new experience.

Altogether this route is 10km long and with a surprising amount of elevation change. The park is quite hilly and for this route travels from atop the bluff down to the lower realms and back, not once but twice. Perhaps a quarter of the route described herein is on paved pathway and the rest packed gravel.

Starting at the car lot, follow the paved trail down towards the park office. There’s some old ruins along this stretch, left side and accessed via a spur trail, that you can view. The chimneys here were part of Morris Home that stood on this spot from 1914 until 1977, when it burned down. There’s a historical plaque that speaks of former residents and explains why the area around is called Millionaire Hill. Hint: because it became a popular place for aristocrats to settle.

Just past the park office (nice views from there), go right, leave the pavement behind and take Tiger Lily South down. It drops steeply at times, with zig-zags helping ease the grade in places and soon passes a cattle gate. There were no cows this day but they are regular visitors to Glenbow Park and you’ll see proof of that soon enough. Come to a junction and turn left (right is Tiger Lily North, used on the return leg).

Before long come to another junction, with the paved Bowbend Trail and turn right. The water level of the pond here was low on our visit, and an ugly brown, but we’ve seen it in summer when it’s usually fuller and more pleasing in colour. It can be almost mirror-like if the air is still and with cattails along the shore, makes a pleasant scene. Ducks, geese and other waterbirds like to stop by.

Speaking of brown – it was the dominate colour on this visit (with blue, thanks to the sky, coming in second) but later in the spring everything here greens up well. The only other splash came thanks to Prairie Crocus and its purple flowers. It’s the first to bloom each spring and is soon gone.

Travelling west, parallel the Canadian Pacific mainline and just beyond the Bow River. Where the trail makes a sharp bend right, there is yet another old chimney and it’s all that’s left of a house that once stood here long ago. Off in a cow field and protected by a fence it’s viewable from a short distance away. Another info plaque fills in some blanks, but seems to be missing key dates and such. The house appears to pre-date the 1900s, and what you see is all that’s left.

Heading up now and after a short climb come to a junction (bathrooms here) where you turn left. This is still Bowbend Trail but it’s gravel now. Bow Link (on some maps Bowl Link – perhaps in reference to Badger Bowl Trail to which it joins, or perhaps in error) continues up and is paved.

Continuing west, the town of Cochrane comes into view and a reminder that civilization is never that far away. Looks for houses directly ahead, on the hill above, and new developments across the river. There are a few pockets of trees here and there, plus evidence of deer and other wildlife having visited.

The trail crosses a couple drainages, and at the second, take the path to the right continuing up the bottom of a draw. Going left will lead you into the Gleneagles neighbourhood of Cochrane and at this point in the park you’re quite close to some homes. We could smell the BBQ and it made our mouths water.

Climb up at a steady pace, break out of the draw using a couple switchbacks and hit the high point of the day at a bench. An old farm road makes the route confusing, since the trail and it crosses many times.

You’ve arrived and this vantage affords sweeping views of the Bow Valley, the town of Cochrane and of mountains in the west. On our visit, the distant peaks were still locked in winter’s icy grip but the warm weather will soon fix that. You’re now along McPherson Trail and it meanders along on a flat bench well up the valley slope.

Dodging patties should keep you busy here and a person might as well make a game of it. Note that cows and people don’t mix and if the former are present, and it’ll only ever be along certain sections, then those trails will be closed. All you’ll see is what they left behind.

The train tracks are clearly seen below and almost on cue, a toot-toot announces the arrival of a passing westbound. They have to whistle for a pedestrian crossing, a bit to the east, here in the park and this gave us a little warning.

Come to Windmill Lookout and from this wonderful vantage point, almost the entire park can be seen spreading out below. It’s all brown but after the first rain transforms into rolling hills of green (trust us). Now on Badger Bowl drop down through grassy meadows and to the pond seen earlier.

Go left on the pavement then almost immediately left again onto gravel. At the next junction continue straight on Tiger Lily North (Tiger Lily South, that you earlier came down is to your right). Enter the trees (welcome shade in the summer – trust us again) and climb up. The deer seem to like this area and we’ve seen them along here every time we’ve hiked this trail.

Just before topping out, you’ll notice some old cars to your left and just off the path. Looks like 1920s stuff and there’s not much left of each. Presumably these were dumped some time ago by someone local (perhaps a resident of the the Morris House), maybe when they became too old or unreliable to use. This way of disposing of unwanted cars was common out in the rural parts and we see evidence of this all the time. Remember our talk on deer? Look for one in the car photos.

Given their age and the typical service life back then means it’s possible they’ve been sitting on this hillside for eighty plus years. While the obsessive half of us wants to try and ID them, there many not be enough to work with here.

Top out and welcome back to pavement. To the right is a lookout, a quick and rewarding diversion, and there’s great views of the western half of the park from here plus the Bow River beyond. Heading back now, it’s only a few hundred metres to the parking lot and that downer that comes with it. We never want it to end and I’m sure we’re not alone in that sentiment.

We started our trip early and initially had the place to ourselves, but by the time we finished it was much busier. Given the size of the property, however, means you might not bump into many people by the time a couple clicks are under your belt.

A little town call Glenbow once existed in the park, down by the tracks (central and west sections) before being abandoned in the 1920s. All that’s left is the old store, remains from the brick works, some cellar pits and high up on a hillside, an old sandstone quarry. We’ve shown photos of many these before on our social accounts and maybe should compile them into a post.

Glenbow Ranch Park is fairly new on the scene and only opened about a dozen years ago. Prior to this use the land was for cattle ranching and doing double duty it still functions in that capacity to some degree as you’ve clearly seen. Looking down is the rule here! This land is prime real estate and had it not been protected like this, we’re sure it would have been snapped up and made into an estate development or something. The views alone make it worth a fortune.

We’ve explored most trails in Glenbow but certain we’ll be back to enjoy it more. It’s just so convenient to the city. Over here there’s 1.3 million people and a short hop away in Glenbow, a quiet little slice of heaven.

Know more(new window): Glenbow Ranch Park.

They’re saying…

”I sure enjoy reading about their travels.” James Churchill.

More fun…
Didsbury Alberta Town Loop.
Devil’s Hole (East Kootenay BC).
Crimson Lake Amerada Trail.

If you wish more information about this route or if you love to chat don’t hesitate to contact us!

Date of adventure: April, 2023.
Location: Glenbow Ranch near Cochrane, AB.
Distance: 10km loop.
Height gain maximum: 80m.
Height gain cumulative: 300m-ish
NOTE: all distances and heights are approximate and may differ slightly from other trip reports (including our own).
Technical stuff and notes: the chips are down.

Welcome to the trails of Glenbow Ranch Park.

Remains of the Morris House.

A little history too.

On Tiger Lily South.

The park office above.

You have to drop down to hike.

At a cattle gate – cows do roam the property.

Prairie Crocus is the first flower of spring.

The Bow River and CPR tracks.

Remains of the Waverley Ranch.

Get used to these underfoot.

On Bowbend Trail.

There’s kiosks like this at certain junctions.

It’s brown and blue kind of day.

Climbing up and dodging patties.

So the trail doesn’t get washed away.

The town of Cochrane (note houses on right) is that close.

A bench memorial at the high-point.

More Cochrane and a passing train closer in.

On McPherson Trail.

Making a descent on Badger Bowl.

On Tiger Lily North and soon to begin the climb.

An old wreck – we’re being watched.

The second of the two old cars here.

One last look from the viewpoint.

10km of fun – star=start.